Cabilao
Raf's Reef Brief:
Visited July 31, 2025
Written August 7, 2025
Location Lowdown
Cabilao is a small, undervisited island on the west side of Bohol, Philippines. At only 4km wide with 5 villages and few resorts, Cabilao was the quietest place I visited in the Philippines. The island has ideal sandy beaches on it's north shore which has earned it a "hidden gem" reputation among foreign tourists and domestic daytrippers.
The reef scene in Cabilao consists of a fringing reef ~150m from shore across the entire west side of island. The benthic over between shore and the drop-off is dominated by seagrass & macroalgae, just a few meters deep. The reef crest and slope are located right at the dropoff, though the width/depth of the forereef fluctuates across the island. Vertical walls run from the bottom of the reef slope down to about 40-50m. There are other reefs on Cabilao's north/south/east sides, but only the west side reefs boasted (in past tense) notable hard coral cover thanks to the nutrient rich currents it receives from the Cebu Straight.
Raf’s Recommendation
I had a lot of hope for Cabilao— it was known to have some of the best shallow reefs in the Philippines. Looking at past reports, Cabilao's west side appears to have been heaven for Montipora & Acropora enthusiasts. Unfortunately these reefs were eviscerated by Supertyphoon Odette in late 2021 and there is virtually NOTHING left. Worse, here's almost no recovery: there are very little coral recruits present and those that settled were being out competed by algae or eaten by COTS. Unlike Moalboal and Balicasag, which were also heavily damaged by the typhoon, we found no surviving patches of reef at any depth; the stony corals were pulverized from the 2m deep reef crest down to the midreef at ~12m. Past 12m the vertical walls still have tons of life when it comes to Gorgonia, black corals, and Tubastrea, but the shallow branching hard corals we came looking for are sadly no more.
Consensus: I would not recommend visiting Cabilao for stony corals— there are virtually none left! The deep vertical walls still have plenty of interesting octocorals (if that's your thing), but you can see similar walls at Moalboal's Pescador Island which is much easier to get too.
The Reef Brief
We spent 3 days snorkeling and diving the fringing reefs on the west side of Cabilao, including the south and north corners. We didn't checkout any other parts of the island since both past reports and local dive guides indicated there wasn't much hard coral there before or after the typhoon. With the shallow hard coral reefs now gone, I would really only recommend diving at depth.
1. Fish Sanctuary to Lighthouse, Cabilao
Best Area: Poor
Worst Area: Poor
Best Way to View: Scuba Diving
Difficulty: Moderate
Wide Reef is your best chance at seeing wide patches of hard corals, especially branching Acropora, tabling Acropora, and plating Montipora, in Port Barton. Several of the standard boat tours stop at this location and moor in various areas. The site is an offshore reef and most of the hard coral is within its 2-3m deep reef flat. The sloping dropoffs begin at 5m deep. Expect higher visibility than the rest of Port Barton (~10m) due to it's offshore location and light surface currents when wind is present. The reef is wiiiide (hence the name) and there is lot's of dead coral so keep swimming till you find the good stuff.
Starting in area 1a, which is where our boat chose to tie up. Hopping in the water revealed mostly sandy areas and dead corals- based on the quantity likely bleaching or typhoon damage.
Heading from 1a to 1b, we start to get some good hard coral action with patches of thin branching corals (maybe Hydnophoria sp. ?). These patches continue on and off from inbetween 1b to 1a all the way to between 1c and 1e.
Reaching 1b we find the "drop-off." Just like Twin Reef, the corals at the drop off are much less impressive in coverage than those in the central reef flat (though they are still existent). The dropoff continues like this from 1b all the way to 1d.
Some nice tabling Acropora corals will accompany you along the drop off and beckon you inward to the best area (1e).
Following the wall to the outer edges of 1d leads to more dead hard corals.
But heading from 1d to 1e is where the real magic happens; pretty much everywhere around 1e has good hard coral cover (which would be rated higher if it weren't fro the constant patches of dead coral every couple of meters). There are some excellent, large colonies of plating Montipora that feature more diverse hard corals the closer you get to 1e.
Nearing 1e the Montipora gives way to some great colonies of branching Acropora. This area was my favorite in all of Port Barton. The pictures speak for themselves.
The branching Acropora patches are also bounded by some massive bouldering Porites. This shape of this one in particular made me chuckle:
Unfortunately the bouldering Porites are (of course) used as rest areas by both the domestic and foreign tourists. The boat operators did not seem to mind. This goes without saying, but please never touch the coral.
Turning west from 1e to the 1c/1b stretch connects the great Montipora and Acropora patches with the field of small branching hard corals from earlier, which makes for an absolutely amazing view.
But go too far east from 1e and you're back to recently dead hard corals.
And that's it for Wide Reef. Looking back at the pictures it seems the coral was more impressive than I remember. Thinking back, the hard corals at this reef were amazing, but required overlooking the equally sized patches of interspersed dead coral.
2. South Point, Cabilao
Best Area: Poor
Worst Area: Poor
Viewing Method: Scuba Diving
Difficulty: Moderate
Twin Reef is your best chance at getting up close with big mature colonies of hard corals in Port Barton, especially hispidose Acropora, branching Acropora, and foliose Montipora. This is by far the most popular snorkeling site at Port Barton, and nearly all of the "best seller" standard boat tours stop at this location and anchor on the outskirts of the reef. Like Wide Reef this an offshore reef and most of the hard coral is within its 0-2m deep reef flat. It can be very shallow, if not exposed at low tide. The sloping dropoffs begin at 5m deep. Expect higher visibility than the rest of Port Barton (~10m) due to it's offshore location and light surface currents when wind is present. However the reef is small (100m) and the good area is very small (~20-30m).
Beginning in area 2a is a sandy slope with long gone hard corals where the boats like to drop their anchors. The lack of moorings and the unwillingness to use the few present is mind blowing when you consider how important this reef is for the island hopping tours. Please encourage your boats to always use moorings when available! This picture is from around 2b.
Heading out from the sandy slope from 2a torwards the center of the reef its instantly clear the 2024 mass bleaching event has taken it's toll on Twin Reef.
But as you continue north from 2a the health of the branching Acropora improves.
Turning our attention to the drop off at 2b, more dead corals rear their heads.
Continuing northeast around the reef, the drop off at 2c features some good patches of diverse hard corals both at the top and bottom of the slope. I especially love the healthy mature hispidose Acropora colonies which are fairly common at Twin Reef (and Port Barton as a whole).
The already sloping dropoff becomes a shallow slope as we approach 2d. The area is mostly sand and rubble but some spots feature coral recruits trying to make a break for it.
Now entering the center of the reef, the east section of 2e features small area of awesome, diverse, mature hard coral colonies fighting for space. This area was only maybe 1m deep when I visited so the morning sun kind of ruined these pictures, but just look at that Heliopora/Acropora combo!
Swimming to the north of 2e we're greeted with two side by side patches of branching Acropora and foliose Montipora growing right up to the waterline. These corals are super shallow (swim with extreme caution) but are the healthiest continuous patches of hard coral at Twin Reef. Its a miracle these haven't been trampled over the years.
Unfortunately that's a wrap on Twin Reef- its small and after the 2024 Mass bleaching event the healthy parts are even smaller. After seeing what this reef used to look like in others' past reports, it was hard for me to enjoy.
Unvisited Areas of Interest
A quick glance at at any of the various diveshop maps reveals a myriad of other divesites across the island. Considering that the fringing reef continues around the entire island, there area about ~10km of distance we did not snorkel or dive.
According to the local dive guides, there were no worthwhile hard corals on the rest of Cabilao that compared to the west side of the island, even before the typhoon. Past reports visually confirm this difference in coral cover. Additionally there is the problem of coastal access, since most of the island is lined by 5m cliffs with scattered local stairways down to the beach. This makes snorkeling the south and north sides difficult without a boat. Due to these factors, my partner and I decided only to survey the reefs on the west side of Cabilao.
Logistics
How to Get There
Travel to and from Cabilao occur daily via local boat (bangkas) from the neighboring Sandingan Pier since there are no roads or bridges connecting the island to Bohol. A private bangka will take you anywhere on the island for ₱1000 regardless of the number of passengers. More budgeted travelers will opt for the public bangka which operates regular and leaves whenever it gets full— expect to be the only person asked for a 100-500₱ up-charge if there aren't enough heads. These public bangka's will drop you off at Talisay pier on Cabilao's southeast side, where you will need to hire a motorcycle or walk several kilometers to your resort (there are no cars, trikes, or public transport on the island). We did not take the public bangka option due to my fear of motorcycle accidents, so no info on the current prices.
Traveling between Sandingan Pier and Bohol's captial of Tagbilaran (where all the ferries and flights operate from) is a bit trickier. There are jeepneys at Sandingan Pier that go to Tagbilaran, but they only depart whenever they have enough heads and we were not able to catch one. I don't know the price nor end destination. Alternatively you can take a trike (40₱/head) 5km from Sandingan Pier to the Moalong Bridge bus stop on mainland Bohol, and wait for a bus to Tagbilaran Dao integrated bus terminal. The buses arrive every 15-30 minutes from 7:00am onward and the 1 hour route costs 75₱/head for aircon, 60₱/head standard.
To get to Tagbilaran, Bohol there are plenty of well priced Cebu Pacific flights between Manila (MNL) and Panglao (TAG) and various ferries from Cebu City, Dumagete in Negros, and even Siquijor. Buses, jeepneys, and Grab (Asia's version of Uber) are all reliable in Tagbilaran so getting to the Dao bus terminal is simple.
Where to Stay & Eat
Diver oriented resorts are the primary accommodation in Cabilao since the area hasn't become a destination for backpackers. They all are concentrated in the northwest corner of the island by the sandy beaches there. Expect prices of at least ₱4000/night for typical Filipino resort experience: weak AC, variable wifi, and of course plenty of creepy-crawlies. We stayed at Sunset Dive & Beach resort (cheapest single room accommodation with AC we could find) and we were not impressed. Not sure what cheaper homestay/hostel options there are in the area. Tap water in the area is fresh and non-potable. Expect power brownouts.
Being an island with no roads or large ports, food is pretty limited on Cabilao. The resort food ranges from ₱400-700 per meal and as you can expect, is usually terrible. We didn't see any local grocery markets by the resorts though there may be some inland. There are no 7-elevens or other developed convenience stores on the Island. We did not look for a water purifying station but I wouldn't expect to find any on the island.
What to Do
Diving is main attraction on Cabilao which is ironic considering the devastation of the coral reefs here. It's offered by virtually all of the resorts on the northwest corner is quite a bit more expensive than other locations at more or less ₱2000/dive. Sunset Dive & Beach resort raised the price by ₱250/dive on us despite our Whatsapp messages and the price written on the info sheet in the room. They are not a sustainable venture either as the owner kicked plenty of corals with his fins, the guide harassed marine life with pointer sticks, and the boatman dropped anchors when moorings where available. Sigh.
Above the water, local resorts advertise beach-going, kayaking, and walking trails around the island— so nothing notable. My personal favorite topside activity was to enjoy Cabilao's silence, which has been a surprisingly rare commodity throughout our travels in the Philippines.
Mainland Bohol has plenty of activities to choose from, but they all operate from Tagbilaran & Panglao.
What to Bring
•Bohol is considered malaria free in 2025 (according to our doctor); please consult a travel physician for official recommendations. We still recommend a bug net for your bed treated with permethrin (and the string to hang it) and treated long sleeve clothing to prevent risk of dengue.
•A complete travel first aid kit with antibiotic and antidiarrhea prescriptions is always recommended.
•All manner of bites, stings, scratches, and burns can be prevented with proper clothing both above and below water. Synthetic hiking pants paired with a hooded SPF rated synthetic shirt dry quick and prevent sunburn (including the neck, ears, and palms). Treat them with permethrin and you’ll rarely find yourself getting bit by bugs. This clothing is a great way to save on sunscreen and bug spray over long trips. A hooded longsleeve/longpants rashguard or wetsuit set will prevent jellyfish stings, hypothermia, and sunburns while diving and snorkeling. Always snorkel with a hood- exposed necks burn fast.
•If you are insistent on short sleeve clothing, sun screen (reef-safe only) and bug repellent (DEET over 15%) are your best friends. Bug repellent is commonly available but expensive. Sunscreen is hard to find.
•The beaches on Cabilao's north corner have plenty of rubble, dead coral rock, and trash. Water shoes (or even better, full soled zip up booties) are recommended.
•We didn't see any ATM's in Cabilao, but we didn't search any of 5 villages so its possible they do exist. The resorts and locals still rely on cash so carry an adequate amount.
•Outlets are the hybrid style that take US and EU styles with no ground.
•English is commonly spoken in urban and touristy areas throughout the Philippines. Knowledge of local phrases and words will please locals and help you find local prices.
Disclaimers:
•Coral conditions and prices are only accurate to the last day of visit.
•No information on this website constitutes research, advice, or training and is not intended to be used as such. Travel and participate in water activities under your own discretion and only with proper training. All opinions are my own and all statements are based on my individual experience and memory. Please contact us to correct a mistake.
•All photos, videos, maps are my own unless stated otherwise. All rights reserved.
•As always, these articles are heavily inspired by www.whatsthesnorkellinglike.wordpress.com. Credit and cudos to the amazing example they have set.